GATE OF LEGENDARY AEGEAN
When we follow the route from North to South along the coastline of Aegean we will witness a large quantity of traces Anatolia history in Aeolia, Ionia, Caria.
Aeolis or Aeolia was an area that comprised the west and northwestern region of Asia Minor, mostly along the coast and also several offshore islands where the Aeolian Greek city-states were located in Aegean Reagion. Aeolis incorporated the southern parts of Mysia which bounded it to the north, Ionia to the south, and Lydia to the east.
Aeolis was an ancient district on the western coast of Asia Minor. It extended along the Aegean Sea from the entrance of the Hellespont, now the Dardanelles south to the Hermus River, now the Gediz River. It was named for the Aeolians, some of whom migrated there from Greece before 1000 BC. Aeolis was, however, an ethnological and linguistic enclave rather than a geographical unit. The district often was considered part of the larger northwest region of Mysia.
Ionia is an ancient region of central coastal Anatolia, the region nearest İzmir, which was historically Smyrna. It consisted of the northern territories of the Ionian League of Greek settlements. Never a unified state, it was named after the Ionian tribe who in the Archaic Period 600–480 BC, settled mainly the shores and islands of the Aegean Sea. Ionian states were identified by tradition and by their use of Eastern Greek. According to Greek tradition, the cities of Ionia were founded by colonists from the other side of the Aegean whose settlement was connected with the legendary history of the Ionic people in Attica.
Anybody wishing to visit Anatolia absoluetly should see Aegean coastline. Without doubt Ephesus is one of the most popular ancient cities in the World. It will be unforgettable experience of your trip to start with Ephesus.
The earliest traces of human settlement found so far in the region of Ephesos were discovered on Çukuriçi Höyük which dates back to the early Chalcolithic period.
The history of archaeological research in Ephesus stretches back to 1863 when British architect John Turtle Wood, sponsored by the British Museum, began to search for the Artemision. In 1869 he discovered the pavement of the temple but since further expected discoveries were not made the excavations stopped in 1874. In 1895 German archaeologist Otto Benndorf, financed by a 10,000 guilder donation made by Austrian Karl Mautner Ritter von Markhof, resumed excavations. In 1898 Benndorf founded the Austrian Archaeological Institute which plays a leading role in Ephesus today. Findings from the site are exhibited notably in the Ephesos Museum in Vienna, the Ephesus Archaeological Museum in Selçuk and in the British Museum.
Now we are going to see all ruins to be seen today step by step. There are two entrances to Ephesus; The Magnesian Gate, on the road the house of Mother Mary and the harbor gate. But we will follow the city plan seen abow.
Magnesian Gate; Engineer and architect J.T Wood discovered the Magnesian gate around 1869 during his search for the Temple of Artemis. The original building was possibly erected in the Doric order with a passageway 3.70m wide and an almost square courtyard on the city side.
East Gymansion; This building was actually a bath-gymnasium complex, erected in about the 2C AD. It lay immediately north of the Magnesian Gate. There was a lecture hall (palaestra) at the entrance. During the excavations, the statues of healing god Asclepius, Aphrodite, Dionysus, Hygeia, Pan were found enriching here. They are in Izmir Archaeology Museum today. There were enormous bathing halls in the centre of the structure, surrounded on three sides by vaulted halls for physical exercise, games and for strolling after the bath.
Early Christian Chruch; A church was built over the Hellenistic city wall to the east of the lecture hall in the late 4th or 5th century. Then it was converted into a three-aisled basilica with narthex and arcades. Most of the floor surface was covered with decorative mosaics. The church was abandoned after the fire in 7C AD.
St. Luke’s Grave; Apostle or Evangelist Luke is the author of the Gospel of Luke, the companion of the Apostle Paul. He was born in Antioch, studied Greek philosophy, medicine, and art in his youth. He came to Jerusalem where he came to believe in Lord Jesus. He and Cleopas met the resurrected Lord on the road to Emmaus (Luke 24). In addition to his Gospel, St. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles. Luke was 84 years old when the wicked idolaters tortured him for the sake of Christ and hanged him from an olive tree in the town of Thebes, in Boethia.
He was the patron of the medical profession. He was reported to be a fine painter and is also patron of artists, painters, sculptors, craft workers and lacemakers. His symbol was the bull, the third symbolical beast mentioned by Ezekiel, which is a symbol of Christ's sacrificial and priestly office, as pointed out by St. Irenaeus. In Ephesus, there was a circular structure which was described as the grave of St Luke because of the bull carved into the door.
Varius Bath; The ruins to the east of the Basilica belong to the bath of Varius, dating to the Roman period. The construction dates to the 2nd century A.D and the mosaics in the 40 meters long corridor dates to the 5th century. It is built of cut blocks of marble. It has three sections, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. The excavations have not been completed yet.
State Agora; The agora on the southern part of the Basilica is the State Agora, and was built in the Roman Period in the first century B.C. This agora was used not for commerce but for business, it played an important role as a meeting place for the governmental discussions.
During the excavations in the northeast corner of the Agora were found a great number of graves from the 7th-6th centuries B.C and a stone-paved road, and a archaic sarcophagus of terra cotta. From this it is understood that in the archaic period this part of the Agora was used as the necropolis of Ephesus.
The agora is 160x73 meters, with stoas on three sides and a temple in the center, dating from the 1st century A.D The temple was dedicated to Isis, surrounded by ten columns on the long side and 6 on the short side. It was collapsed during the reign of Augustus and was not re-built again, as Emperor Augustus' dislike of anything Egyptian. On the facade of the Temple, there were group of statues describing the legend of Odysseus and Polyphemos which are now displayed in the Ephesus Museum.
Temple of Isıs; Ephesus throughout its history always had a large Egyptian population and Isis was a very important Egyptian goddess. She is the wife and sister of Osiris and the mother of Horus. There was a temple of Isis rectangular in shape and in the center of the State Agora. The temple was built during the Hellenistic period when Ephesus had close relations with Alexandria.
The Fountaın Basis; On the southwest corner of the State Agora there are the remains of a fountain. According to an inscription the magnificent construction of this fountain was ordered by Gaius Laecanius Bassus in 80-82 AD. The facade of this fountain constructed by Bassus, one of the governor of Ephesus, was richly decorated, and consisted of two floors which faced the street. The statues of Tritons and Muses, sea creatures and river gods which were found at the fountain, are now on display at the Ephesus Museum. Because of the enormous size of the fountain it has been referred to as the "Water Palace".
Basilica; It is a typical Roman Basilica. It is 160 meters long, and located on the northern part of the state agora and has a nave and three-aisles. The Ionic columns in the basilica are adorned with bulls' head figures dating to the 1st century A.D. The basilica was used for stock exchange and commercial business. Meetings of the law courts were also held there in the basilica. It has three gates opening onto a stoa leading to the Bath of Varius. The statues of Augustus and his wife Livia were found at the east end, and now they are displayed in Ephesus Museum. So we can understand that the Basilica was rebuilt for the last time during the reign of the Emperor Agustus.It was destroyed by an earthquake in the middle of the Fourth Century AD.
Odeon; This building has the shape of a small theatre with the stage building, seating places and the orchestra. It had double function in use. First it was used as a Bouleuterion for the meetings of the Boulea or the Senate.The second fuction was the Odeum as a concert hall for the performances. It was constructed in the 2nd century A.D by the order of Publius Vedius Antonius and his wife Flavia paiana, two wealthy citizens in Ephesus. It had a capacity of 1500 spectators. It had 3 doors opening from the stage to the podium. The podium was narrow and one meter higher than the orchestra section. The stage building was two-storeyed and embellished with columns.The podium in front of the stage building and some parts of the seating were restored. The Odeon used to be enclosed with a wooden roof.
Temenos; There used to be two temples between the Prytaneum (town hall) and Odeon (Concert hall). They were Imperial Cult erected in the 1C AD with the permission of Augustus in honor of his adoptive father Julius Caesar, and of Rome. The Imperial Cult never became a true religion. They aimed to have good relationship with emperors and flatter. There was an altar serving the worship of Artemis and Augustus.
Prytaneion: Behind the basilica is the Prytaneion, where religious ceremonies, official receptions and banquets were held. The sacred flame symbolizing the heart of Ephesus was kept constantly alight in the Prytaneion. The construction of the building dates to the 3rd century B.C, during the reign of Lysimachos, but the ruins of the complex dates to the Augustan age. The four-cornered pit in which the sacred fire is burned is a relic from the reign of Lysimachos. The front of the building is four columns, beyond the columns is a courtyard surrounded by a portico, and on the north is the center of the building, the ceremonial hall, and its side rooms. The eternal flame was here in the center of the ceremonial hall, the red color on the floor determined the location of the flame. Towards the back, there was a large area with wooden roof, the base of an altar is still recognizable today. The double columns on the corners of the hall held up the wooden roof. During excavations, archeologists found 2 artemis statues, which are now presented in Ephesus museum.
Domitian Square; Domitian Temple gave this area its name. It was the first temple to be built in the name of an emperor (81 - 96A.D.) and located next to the Domitian Square . The Polio Fountain and Memmius Monument stands opposite of each other.
Temple of Domitian; Located to the south end of the Domitian Street, it is the first structure in Ephesus known to be dedicated to an emperor. It was built on a high and wide terrace set by 50x100 meters in size, on vaulted foundations. The northern size of the terrace seems to be two-stories high, reached by stairs. The stairs are still visible today. The temple, built in pro-style plan, had eight columns on the short side and thirteen columns on the long side, and four additional columns in front of the cella. At the northern side there was an u-shaped altar, which is now displayed in Izmir museum.
Fountain of Pollio; The Pollio Fountain was located to the south of the State Agora, across the Odeon. It was built in 97 A.D by the rich Ephesian C.S.Pollio and his family. The water was brought to the fountains of Ephesus from three main sources through aqueducts and distributed from fountains by a branching system of baked clay pipes.
Memnius Monument; This Monument is situated on the north side of the Domitian Square. It was constructed during the reign of Augustus in the 1st century A.D by Memmius, the grand son of dictator Sulla. One can see the figures of his father and grandfather on the blocks today. The structure has four facades, in the 4th century A.D a square fountain was built on the northwest facade.
Hercules Gate; Located towards the end of the Curetes Street, it was called the Hercules gate because of the relief of Hercules on it. It was brought from another place in the fourth century AD to its current place, but the relief on it dates back to the second century AD. Only the two side of the columns remain today and the other parts of it have not been found.
The relief of the flying Nike in the Domitian Square is thought to also be a part of this gate. The Heracles Gate narrowed the access to the street, preventing the passage of vehicles. We can understand that from the Fourth Century, the street had become a pedestrian area. In these reliefs Heracles was depicting with the skin of the Nemean lion in myhtology. The Nemean lion had been terrorizing the area around Nemea, and had a skin so thick that it was impossible to kill it. Finally he wrestled the lion to the ground, eventually killing it by thrusting his arm down its throat and choking it to death. Heracles was the god of power and strenght.
Curetes Street; It is one of the three main streets of Ephesus between The Hercules Gate till to the Celsus Library. This street took its name from the priests who were called as Curetes later their names were written in Prytaneion. There were fountains, monuments, statues and shops on the sides of the street. The shops on the south side were two-storied. Ephesus had many earthquakes in which many structures including the Curetes Street were damaged. These damages especially on the columns were restored by the new ones, but after the earthquake in the 4th century, the columns were replaced by the other ones brought from different buildings in the city. The differences between the design of the columns can be seen today. The street has its appearance from the 4th century.
Fountain Trajan; Built in around 104 C.E, it is one of the finest monuments in Ephesus. It was constructed for the honor of Emperor Trajan, and the statue of Trajan stood in the central niche on the facade overlooking the pool. The pool of the fountain of Trajan was 20x10 meters, surrounded by columns and statues. These statues were Dionysus, Satyr, Aphrodite and the family of the Emperor. They are now presented in Ephesus Museum. The restoration has not been finished yet.
Terrace Hauses; Ephesus terrace houses are located on the hill, opposite the Hadrian Temple. Also called as "the houses of rich", important for the reason give us information about family life during the Roman period. They were built according to the Hippodamian plan of the city in which roads transected each other at right angels. There are six residential units on three terraces at the lower end of the slope of the Bulbul Mountain. The oldest building dates back into the 1C BC and continued in use as residence until the 7C AD. Ephesus terrace houses are covered with protective roofing which resembles Roman houses. The mosaics on the floor and the frescos have been consolidated and two houses have been opened to the public as a museum.
They had interior courtyards in the center with the ceiling open. They were mostly two-storied, upper stores have collapsed during time. On the ground floor there were living and dining rooms opening to the hall, and upstairs there were bedrooms and guest rooms. The heating system of the terrace houses were the same as that in baths. Clay pipes beneath the floors and behind the walls carried hot air through the houses. The houses also had cold and hot water. The rooms had no window, only illuminated with light coming from the open hall, so that most of the rooms were dim. The excavations of the terrace houses started in 1960. The restoration of the two of the houses have been finished and can be visited today.
Scholastica Baths; It was built in the First Century and restored in the Fourth Century by a rich Christian lady called Scholastica. On the left of the eastern entrance, you can see her statue without head. The original structure was thought to have been three-storied but by the time the upper two stories collapsed. The baths have two entrances, one from the Curetes Street, which is the main entrance, and the other from the side street. When you enter you see first the apodyterium with ten cabins, then frigidarium with its pool and then the tepidarium to relax, and finally the caldarium with its developed heating system. The second floor was used for masseage and scrubbe as a therapy. It was used not only to bath but also to socialize and discuss the topics of the day.
Temple of Hadrian; It is one of the best preserved and most beautiful structures on Curetes Street. It was built before 138 A.D by P.Quintilius and was dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian, who came to visit the city from Athens in 128 A.D. The facade of the temple has four Corinthian columns supporting a curved arch, in the middle of which contains a relief of Tyche, goddess of victory. The side columns are square. Inside the temple above the door, a human figure, probably Medusa stands with ornaments of acanthus leaves. On both sides there are friezes depicting the story of the foundation of Ephesus - Androklos shooting a boar, Dionysus in ceremonial procession and the Amazons. The fourth frieze portrays two male figures, one of which is Apollo; Athena, goddess of the moon; a female figure, Androkles, Herakles, the wife and son of Theodosius and the goddess Athena. The friezes that are seen today are copies, and the originals are displayed in Ephesus Museum.
Latrin; They were part of the Scholastica Baths and built in the 1C AD. They were the public toilets of the city. There was an entrance fee to use them. In the centre, there is an uncovered pool and the toilets are aligned along the walls. The columns surrounding the pool supported a wooden ceiling. There was a drainage system under the toilets.
Octagon; Octagon was a vaulted burial chamber placed on a rectangular base with the skeleton of a 15 or 16 year old woman in a marble sarcophagus. According to an interpretation Octagon was a monument to Ptolemy Arsinoe IV, the youngest sister of the famous Cleopatra VII. was murdered in Ephesus in 41 BC.
Heroon; It was a U-shaped building with an open Ionic upper story. Water ran through a channel in front of the building. The gable and frieze had reliefs depicting Androclus killing a wild boar, the foundation story of Ephesus. The building is thought to have been a monument dedicated to Androclus.
Hadrian’s Gate; Hadrian’s Gate is located at the junction of the Curetes Street and the Marble Street. The gate house has three stories. On the first story there are three entrances. The one in the center is wider and spanned by an arch and the other two side entrances are capped by architraves. The second story was formed of four pillars and the third story of six pillars. A gable marks the top of the building.
Celcus Library; This library is one of the most beautiful structures in Ephesus. It was built in 117 A.D. It was a monumental tomb for Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the governor of the province of Asia. The grave of Celsus was beneath the ground floor, across the entrance and there was a statue of Athena over it due to the Athena was the goddess of the wisdom.
The scrolls of the manuscripts were kept in cupboards in niches on the walls. There were double walls behind the bookcases to prevent the them from the extremes of temperature and humidity. The capacity of the library was more than 12,000 scrolls. It was the third richest library in ancient times after the Alexandra and Pergamum. The facade of the library has two-stories, with Corinthian style columns on the ground floor and three entrances to the building. There is three windows openings in the upper story. The statues in the niches of the columns today are the copies of the originals. The statues symbolize wisdom; Sophia, knowledge; Episteme, intelligence; Ennoia and valor; Arete.
Gate of Mazeus; The gate with three passage ways at the right of the Celsus Library was built in 40 A.D by the slaves Mazeus and Mythridates for their emperor, Augustus, who gave them their freedom.The passages are vaulted, the front side of the vault facing the Celsus Library is made of black marble while the other side is white. A Latin inscription with inlaid letters made of bronze is still visible on one side of the structure. The small area in front of the gate was used as an auditorium. The steps around the gate, in front of the library and the round pedestal were used as seats. In Byzantine Period, the walls in the small area were built when the city walls were reduced in length.
Commercial Agora; Being the most important trade center of Ephesus, Agora was built in the third century B.C in the Hellenistic Period, but the ruins date from the reign of Caracalla (211-217 C.E). It is in the form of a square, each side 110 meters, and surrounded completely by columns. The Agora has 3 gates, one from the front of the theatre on the northeast, the other one opening to the harbor on the west and the third one from the Celsius Library. The north side of the Agora is left open, and the other three sides are surrounded by a portico, in which there are rows of shops. At the center of the Agora was a sundial and a water-clock.
Temple of Serapis; This temple was built for the Egyptian merchants. It was located on the Commercial Agora near the western gate. There is also another entrance into the temple from the south-west corner of the Agora through stairs. There are certain indications that suggest the temple was never finished fully. It is estimated that the construction of the temple was started in the 2nd century A.D. There is a statue found inside the temple made by using the Egyptian granite. Also some inscriptions found inside the temple indicate that the temple was constructed for those who believe in Serapis.
Marble Road; It is the road starting form the great theatre to the Celsus Library which is the portion of the sacred way that leads past Panayirdagi to the Temple of Artemis. The construction of the marble road dates to the 1st century A.D, and it was rebuilt in the 5th century. The western side of the road is enclosed by the agora wall and on the wall is a higher platform, which was constructed during the reign of Nero. It was built over the wall, for pedestrians. On the marble road, there are some drawings believed to be an advertisement of the Brothel. There is a footprint on the advertisement, one finger showing the library, and other showing the brothel. The known explanation of this sign is that the footprint shows that one should turn at that point; the woman's head symbolizes the women waiting in the Brothel and the heart shows that the women are eager for love.
Theatre; This is the most magnificent structure in Ephesus ancient city. The Great Theatre is located on the slope of Panayir Hill, opposite the Harbor Street, and easily seen when entering from the south entrance to Ephesus. It was first constructed in the Hellenistic Period, in the third century BC during the reign of Lysimachos, but then during the Roman Period, it was enlarged and formed its current style that is seen today. It is the largest in Anatolia and has the capacity of 25,000 seats. The cavea has sixty six rows of seats, divided by two diazoma into three horizontal sections. There are three sections of seats. In the lower section, Marble pieces, used for restoration, and the Emperor's Box were found. The seats with backs, made of marble, were reserved for important people. The audience entered from the upper cavea. The stage building is three-storied and 18 meters high. The facade facing the audience was ornamented with relieves, columns with niches, windows and statues. There are five doors opening to the orchestra area, the middle one of which is wider than the rest.
Arcadian Street; This street is situated between the Harbour Baths and the great theatre. Entering from the port, traders and sailors would first arrive in this street. So it was designed gorgeous with marbel slabs and colonnades. It was constructed in the Hellenistic Period but then was restored during the reign of the Emperor Arcadius 395-408 AD. from whom it takes its present name. The street was 530 meters long and 11 meters wide, and on both sides of the street there were shops and galleries, and gates in the form of monumental arches. There were four higher columns with the statues of four apostels on the top.
Harbour Gymnasium; There was a gymnasium in the middle part of the bath-gymnasium complex. Its ancient designation was probably Gymnasium of Emperors and consists of a square peristyle court, corresponds to the palaestra of a Greek gymnasium. There were rooms varying size and furnishings and served, in Roman times, for cultural and spiritual edification. There was a large sports field in the middle of the gymnasium.
Harbur Baths; The large bath-gymnasium complex north of the Arcadiane is planned symmetrically. It consists of three parts: baths, gymnasium and athletic grounds. This building may have been begun at the time of Domitian and it was rebuilt before the middle of the 4th century AD.
The Double Churches; This Roman building is dated to the 2nd century A.D as the ‘Hall of the Muses’. It was used as an education and cultural center. After the christianity became the official religion of Rome, they converted this building into a basilica. It was the first church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was 260 m. in length, and was built with columns in the form of a fine basilica with baptistry. After it was partly destroyed, the western part formed a domed basilica and when this too was ruined, the eastern part of the old basilica was turned into a church. So it is also called as the Double Churches. The baptistry of this church is the best preserved in Asia Minor. The Third Ecumenical Council was held in Ephesus, Asia Minor, in 431 under Emperor Theodosius II, grandson of Theodosius the Great. It is also known as the Council of Ephesus. Approximately 200 bishops attended. Here, the divine character of Christ and the Virgin Mary was discussed.
Stadium; The Stadium was located to the south of the Vedius Gymnasium. The spectators' seats on the south was resting on the slopes of the Panayirdag. The seats on the northern section were placed on the heightened vaulted galleries. There was a monumental entrance gate to the Stadium on the west. Its last shape was mainly given and enlarged during the Roman Emperor Neron's reign in the 1st century A.D. As all Roman stadiums from the classical era, it was planned in a U-shape then.
Vedius Gymnasium; It is easily seen when entering the Ephesus city from the south entrance. The construction of the gymnasium dates around the second century AD, funded by Publius Vedius Antoninus and his wife Flavia Papiana. The entrance of the gymnasium is on the east and when entering there is a palaestra, surrounded by columns. The hall of emperors is also on the east, with statues and floors covered with mosaics. The gymnasium included a bath, with a tepidarium, a caldarium, and a frigidarium. There was a pool at the frigidarium, with the statue of the god of the River Kaistros in the north end pouring water into the pool from the amphora that the god was leaning on. Today, the statute is displayed in Izmir Museum.
Artemis Temple; The temple of Artemis is known as one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. It has been built in the areas of Ephesus on a flat area which has over the centuries turned into a swamp. Today one can only see the ruins of the foundations of this marvelous construction of the Hellenistic Age entirely made of marble and full of sculptured columns' capitals and shafts. The most beautiful remaining of this temple are today exhibited in the London British Museum. The oldest remaining found date back till the 6th century BC. It was surrounded by 36 huge columns, later enlarged upon the orders of the Lydia King, Kreisos, during the 6th century BC. Most of the exhibits in the London British Museum belong to this period.
The new Artemis has been rebuilt in the 2nd century BC. Located on top of the previous one, it had tremendous dimensions: 127 columns of each 17,5 meters high. Unfortunately this one has also been destroyed by fire, reconstructed and again demolished by earthquakes, rebuilt and at last looted by Goths one year later. The statue of many-breasted Artemis was the symbol of the temple but also of abundance, hunting and wild life. The genuine statue of Artemis, removed during the fire, is today exhibited in the Selcuk Museum. Many copies of this statue found during the latest excavations date back from the Roman period.
Virgin Mary Hause; Actullya it is up to you to visit Virgin Mary House before or after Ephesus, but let’s visit after seeing Ephesus. Located on the top of the "Bulbul" mountain 9 km ahead of Ephesus, the shrine of Virgin Mary enjoys a marvelous atmosphere hidden in the green. It is the place where Mary may have spent her last days. Indeed, she may have come in the area together with Saint John who spent several years in the area to spread Christianity. The house of Virgin Mary is a typical Roman architectural sample, entirely made of stones. In the 4th century AD. a church, combining her house and grave, has been built. The original two-stored house, which consisted of an anteroom, bedroom and praying room and a room with fireplace, chapel.
After visiting these two marvellous places now it is time to visit city center of Selçuk where St. John’s basilica can be visited.
St. John Basilica; It is believed that the evangelist St. John had spent his last years in the region around Ephesus and buried in the southern slope of Ayosoluk Hill. Three hundred years after the death of St. John, a small chapel was constructed over the grave in the 4th century. The church of St John was changed into a marvelous basilica during the region of Emperor Justinian 527 -565 AD.
St John or the Apostle John was the writer of the Fourth Gospel and the book of Revelation. The accounts of the Gospels agree that he is the son of Zebedee. Together with his brother James, began to follow Jesus while fishing in the Lake Galilee. He became one of the Christ’s closest disciples and was with him on various significant events such as the Transfiguration and the Crucifixion. At his writings when Jesus was on his torture stake he said that : ‘Mother, this is your Son’. And to his beloved disciple, ‘this is Your Mother’ (John 19:26-27). The beloved disciple is thought to have been St John.
The monumental basilica was in the shape of a cross and was covered with six domes. Its construction, being of stone and brick, is an extremely rare find amongst the architecture of its time. Raised by two steps and covered with marble, the tomb of St John was under the central dome, that was once carried by the four columns at the corners. The columns in the courtyard reveals the monograms of Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora. Constructed in the 5th century AD, the baptistery is north of the nave, with its key hole shape. Rampart walls around the church were constructed for protection from the Arabian attracts in the 7th - 8th centuries AD. The impressive 10th century AD frescoes representing St John, Jesus and a Saint, ornament the chapel. With the invasion of Turks, the chapel was used as a mosque in the 14th century; unfortunately Basilica of Saint John became unusable due to the serious earthquake in the same century.
The mosque was styled asymmetrically unlike the traditional style. The location of the windows, doors and domes were not matched, purposely. In the entrance of the mosque, an inscription from the god decorates the doorway. The columns inside the house of prayer are from earlier ruins in Ephesus, making an interesting contrast to the mosque. The domes are ornamented by turquoise and blue faience, revealing the characteristic of Ottoman style. Crown-like doors from Seljukian architectural style later combine with the specific decoration elements of architectural style. The mosque was repaired in 1934. The mystical atmosphere of "Isa Bey Mosque" must be experienced in the excursion around this region.
Now the route is taking you to one of famous Ioania city Aydın.
But before leaving region it is highly reccomended to village Şirince where is a beautiful hill town only 8 km east of Selçuk, near Ephesus, in the Aegean hinterland south of İzmir. It's famous for its old turkish houses, olive oil, fruit wines, other natural products, and its atmospheric boutique hotels. Quite many small restaurants cater to day-trippers, hotel guests, and locals alike.
But before leaving region it is highly reccomended to village Şirince where is a beautiful hill town only 8 km east of Selçuk, near Ephesus, in the Aegean hinterland south of İzmir. It's famous for its old turkish houses, olive oil, fruit wines, other natural products, and its atmospheric boutique hotels. Quite many small restaurants cater to day-trippers, hotel guests, and locals alike.
AYDIN
If you are interested in visiting a destination steeped in history and with a lot of interesting sights and places to see including; Ottoman era mosques, old Roman period ruins and even a few remnants of buildings which remind us of the former glory of the Byzantine Empire, then Aydın is definitely one of the places that you should visit during your holiday to Turkey.
Aydın is located in the west of Turkey about 65 kilometers east of Kuşadası. Cradled in the midst of Mountain Samsun the area surrounding Aydin has a vast history and culture. Aydın was called Tralleis in ancient times and many of the ruins around the city center date from 2 AD. Aydın Province includes important archeological sites like Priene, Miletos, Magnesia, Didyma, Aphrodisias and Heraklia which are visited by crowds of tourists every year. The local museum in Aydin is a great place for visitors to start as it displays artifacts from the different periods of the city history.
Now it is time to explore famous Ionian cities on the route of North to South of Aegean. The first one which is 50 km. to Ephesus.
PRIENE
Priene, now known as Güllübahçe, was an ancient city of Ionia in Western Anatolia situated some 20 km. from Söke. Excavations here were begun by Carl Human in 1895 and completed by T. Wiegand in 1898. The ruins of Priene present one of the most striking examples of the grid type of town-planning associated with the name of Hippodamos. The plan of Priene was based on that of Athens and as the ancient town is located on a slope at the foot of a great cliff of rock, the grid plan is displayed in all its magnificence. Temples and other buildings were constructed on terraces in front of the cliff.
The origin of Priene and the foundation of the city are ascribed to the Carians, the indigenous population of the region, but legends are our only guide for the earliest days. The oldest remains have been dated to the 6th century B.C. According to some sources, the Ionians first arrived and settled here in the 11th century B.C. and the city was founded either by Aegyptus of Athens or Philotas of Thebes. Bias, one of the most eminent thinkers of ancient times lived here. An electrum coinage is known to have been produced during this period. In the 7th century Priene came under Lydian rule and in the 6th century it was conquered by the Persians, who were to exercise hegemony for over a century.
In 129 B.C. Priene became part of the Roman province of Asia Minor. It was sacked by Mithridates, King of Pontus, in 88 and 84 B.C. but regained its former wealth and prosperity under the Emperor Augustus, whose cult was performed in the temple of Athena and the Sacred Stoa. Priene was also the birthplace of Archelaus, the famous sculptor who, in the 3rd century B.C, adorned the city with his artistic creations and went on to work in Pergamon towards 240 B.C. Priene appeared once again on the stage of history in the Byzantine period as the seat of a bishop. It was captured by the Turks in the l4th century, after which it continued its existence as an insignificant village.
Now according to the city plan we will be able to see all ruins.
The Stadium, when entered from east side to be seen, dates from the 2nd century B.C. On the west can be the seen a track 190 m in length along which the athletes raced while the spectators watched the events from rows of seats on the north side. On a terrace a little higher up there is a stoa where the athletes could practise in bad weather. The general public could also use it as a promenade.
Lower Gymnasium; Located at the western end of the stadium, the lower gymnasium is entered through a propylon or monumental entrance. The central courtyard is in the form of a palaestra, with doric porticos on three sides. In the middle of the north side was the ephebeum, which served as a lecture-room for students and where can still be seen carved on the walls the names of the students who once attended lectures here.
The other rooms were used for physical education. There is also a wash-place with basins into which water flows from spouts in the form of lions' heads. On the far right, beside the door, there is an altar dedicated to Kybele. This was visited by a great many of the poor and destitute, who were also responsible for its maintenance.
Sacred Stoa; It was presented in the 2nd century B.C. by Ariarathes, the King of Cappadocia. It is 116 m long and 12.50 m wide. It rests on a basement. The roof was supported by 49 Doric columns with 24 Ionic columns in the middle. There is a row of 15 shops running along the whole of the north side of the stoa except for the section occupied by the Bouleuterion. The shops opening on to the stoa were reserved for the use of high-ranking officials. The circular bench in one of these would appear to indicate that the cult of Rome and Augustus was practised here. It was because of this that the stoa came to be known as the "Sacred Stoa". An inscription can still be seen on a wall mentioning the Julian calendar accepted in the 9th century A.D. On the eastern side of the Stoa are two important buildings, the Bouleuterion and the Pritanium.
Agora; It is impossible to imagine an ancient city without its agora, and at Priene, from whichever direction you may come, it is in the agora that you will inevitably find yourself. It is best to start the tour of the building from the west. On entering the agora you will pass a small market on your right where meat and vegetables were sold. The agora itself, which was devoted to civic affairs, formed a rectangule measuring 75 x 35 m with the gymnasium on the lower side. Except for the side looking on to the main street, the agora was surrounded by colonnades. In the centre stood a statue dedicated to Hermes, and one can still see a number of round or square pedestals on which marble or bronze statues had been placed. The steps on the south led down to the streets below. On the east there remain traces of the temenos (walled sanctuary) of Olympian Zeus.
Odeon; This is one of the best preserved examples of an ancient bouleuterion. Built on a roughly square plan, it was surrounded by tiers of selats accommodating 640 citizens. In the centre stood an altar with a decoration of bulls' heads and laurel leaves. The building is dated to the 2nd century B.C. The speakers addressed the meeting from a podium carved in the south wall between the two entrances.
Prytenion; Immediately adjacent to the bouleuterion is the Pritaneum, where those responsible for the administration of the city worked, and were given board and lodging. It was also used as accommodation for other citizens and for ambassadors from foreign countries. It was here that the sacred flame of the city burned continually. It was the tradition for newly married couples to take a flame from here to their new homes, being careful not to let it blow out on the way.
Isıs Temple; This was built in the Hellenistic period and dedicated to the Egyptian gods Isis, Serapis and Anubis. The platform of the altar displays very fine stonework. To return to the main road it is advisable to walk in the direction of the theatre.
The theatre, located on the third terrace, is one of the most imposing buildings in Priene. At the present day the upper section of the cavea is in a very ruined state but the lower tiers are in good condition. The cavea must have consisted of fifty tiers with a total capacity of 5,000 spectators. The existence of a clepsydra or water-clock indicates that the theatre was also used for political meetings. In spite of the damage it has suffered, the building still preserves the general appearance of a Greek theatre with the cavea forming rather more than a semi-circle.
In the centre there is an altar of Dionysus and a little higher up another proedrie constructed at a later period. This gives us some idea of the alterations undergone by the stage and the orchestra. The earliest theatre dated back to the 4th century B.C. but modifications continued to be made up to the 2nd century A.D. In Romal times the actors performed on the proscenium but previously the actors had performed on the same level as the orchestra, entering from five doors, two of them at the side and the other three in the facade portico supported by twelve columns arranged along the stage buildihg.
Athena Temple; Some of the Ionic columns have been re-erected, so that it is now possible to view the temple from a distance. It was built between the 4th and 2nd centuries B. C. The plan was designed by the famous architect Pythos, who was also responsible for the Mhusoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It contained a cult statue of the goddess Athena 7 m in height, of which a few marble fragments have been found. It would appear to have been a copy of the statue of Athena in the Parthenon. The altar and the courtyard surrounding it date from the 2nd century B.c. A little further on stands a propylon or monumental gateway with four columns in front and rear dating from the 1st century B. C. The nineteen pedestals on the southern part of the terrace must have supported statues of the gods. Below this lies a stoa with thirty-two columns.
Demeter Temple; One reason for visiting this temple is the magnificent view it offers over the whole of the surrounding area. The oldest temple in the city, it is located on a terrace and is entered from the eastern end through a porch with two columns. On the left of the entrance is a room where the priestesses slept and along the wall there is a high stone bench where the votive offerings were displayed. Outside the temple, on the south, can be seen the pits into which the blood of the sacrificial animals was poured. You can return to the theatre by following the same goat path you used in coming here. A little further on, towards the west, you can see a few beautiful villas.
Hause of Alexander; This house lies a Iittle further on at the end of the road on the right hand side. It has a large courtyard surrounded by cult chambers into which were admitted only the pure, in white raiment. Alexander the Great is said to have stayed in this house in 334 B.C. on his way to the siege of Miletus. It was later converted into a temple dedicated to Alexander, a marble statue of whom has been found here. The city of Priene was planned on the grid system by the Milesian architect Hippodamos. In accordance with this plan, the main streets ran in paralle, with the side streets intersecting them at right angles.
The streets were paved. The houses had courtyards and a drainage system. Water was supplied on request and payment made, as at the present day, in accordance with the amount of water used. The houses were covered with plaster carvings or stucco in imitation of marble.
After visiting Priene, we drive through to Miletus following to Didim direction around 20 km.
MILETUS
As one of the twelve Ionian cities of Asia Minor, Miletus played an important role in the history of western Anatolia. The ruins of the ancient city are situated 30 km south of Söke near the Maeander river and is one of the most attractive sites in Turkey. Miletus was the home of several famous philosophers and scientists such as Thales, Anaximander, Anaximenes, Hippodamus, and Hecataeus. To picture the city as it was in ancient times requires a considerable effort of imagination, hence the ruins are all scattered over a wide area and suffered from natural effects. At last two to three hours are needed to make a complete visit of Miletus, and a half hour to see the interesting collections of archaeological finds in the museum.
Heroon; The Hellenistic structure consists of a courtyard and a tomb stands in the center, and on the East and the West sides of the building there are several rooms.
Nymphaeum; This monumental fountain was built during Roman period (2nd century AD). At the back there are two basins which used to be filled with the water brought by aqueducts from a 6 km source. Part of the water was distributed to the different parts of the city using a network of pipes and channels. The three story facade is flanked by colonnades and ornamented with vaulted niches, and statues of nymphs (water fairies) and deities. Some of the statues of this splendid monument are in Istanbul Archaeological museum and, Pergamum museum in Berlin.
The Bouleuterion; The structure dates back to the reign of the Seleucid king Antiochus IV Epiphanes (2nd Century BC) and engineered by Timarchus and Herakleides. The building compromises a propylon, a colonnaded courtyard, and the auditorium. The columns of the propylon are Corinthian in style and provided access to the courtyard measuring 26 by 24 meters. A doric order stoa stretches along three sides of courtyard in the middle of which the remains of a Roman tomb stands. The capacity of the building was 1500 persons.
Delphinion; The biggest and oldest shrine in Miletus dedicated to Apollo Delphinius. Delphinius (Delphis means dolphin ancient Greek language) was the word that was used in ancient time to relate Apollo with the dolphins. In ancients time dolphins was considered as smart and music loving animals. The Delphinion has a temenos measuring 50 by 60 meters, surrounded by a stoa which was originally built doric in style but changed to Corinthian in style during Roman period.
Other remarkable remains of Miletus can be counted as; Hellenistic gymnasium dating from 2nd Century BC, Ephebeion, The Byzantine Church of St. Michael dating from 6th C. AD., Baths of Faustina, The Mosque of Ilyas bey, and a Synagogue.
Now we drive to Didyma famous for its temple ruins.
DIDYMA
Didyma was an ancient Ionian shrine which is today known as Didim in Turkey. It was the most renowned oracle of the Hellenic world containing a temple and an oracle of Apollo. Mythic genealogies of the Branchidae line of priests, designed to capture the origins of Didyma as a Hellenistic tradition, date to the Hellenistic period. The oracle of Apollo had great fame in the archaic period. The belief in gods had reached enormous proportions by erecting the great numbers of temples in Anatolia. The most important of the temples were dedicated to Apollo were the Didymaion in Anatolia and Temple of Apollo at Delphi in Greece.
Pausanias claims that the Apollo temple at Didyma had been built before the Greek colonization. It is believed that the existence of Didyma goes back to the 2nd millennium BC like that of Miletus and Priene. However the earliest temple remains date back to the end of the 8th century BC, according to the results of excavations research work undertaken up to the present day. The ruins of the Temple of Apollo belong to the 4th century BC temple that you see today. The temple porch held 120 huge columns with richly carved bases reminiscent of Karnak in Egypt. There is a great doorway behind the porch where poems about oracle were written and presented to petitioners.
On both side of the porch covered ramps lead down to the cella (inner room) where the oracle sat and prophesied. The grounds include a photogenic head of Medusa and contain fragments of rich decoration. There used to be a road lined with statues that led to small harbor, but the statues were taken to the British Museum in 1858 after standing unmoved for 23 centuries. Along with several myths, it was thought that the name Dydimaion which meant ”temple of the twins” or “twin temples” was related to Artemis that is the twin sister of Apollo.
However this theory remained as a myth, as there is no definite evidence could be found. Besides, it was proved that this thesis was right, during the excavations in the recent years with the intensification of work on the “Sacred Road” connecting Miletus and Didyma and finding the location of the Artemis cult. The twin temples built for the twin brother and sister, the Artemision and the Didymaion, constitute the origin of the name Didyma. The mother goddess Cybele was closely related to Apollo and Artemis. From prehistoric times Cybele had a very important place in Anatolia. According to the cultures and localities, Cybele had various names and epithets. The most widespread one of these was Dindymus and which was derived from month Dindymus and which is remarkable for its name to the Dydima.
APOLLON TEMPLE
The temple was built at the end of the 8th century BC, which was 10.20 meters wide, 24 meters long and slightly narrowed towards the east and according to the foundations of secos, sacred courtyard walls uncovered in the north and south parts. The simple and small temple contained a cult statue, an altar, a sacred source and the symbols of Apollo. Remains of a columned building which is 15.50 meters long and 3.60 meters wide, revealed by exploratory digging carried out to the south-west of the temple.
The inner facades of the walls of the sacred courtyard were fortified by pilasters in the form of half columns, which brought color to the long, high walls. The height of the walls of the 50.25 meter long and 17.45 meter wide secos (sacred courtyard) reached 17.5 meters. The greatness of the distances between the pilasters on the walls destroys the theory of the secos was roofed. On the eastern side of the temple and on the same axis stands a circular altar. Outer diameter of this altar measures 8 meters and the inner one 5.5 meters, had two doors. On the thresholds, the holes for the hinges can still be seen.
The inside of the altar is very well preserved which had been used in the Archaic, and also the sacred place where the animals presented as votive offerings were burned in the Hellenistic and Roman temples. During excavations, the great amount of ashes found in the building. It is understood from the masonry of the lower parts of this circular that it was built in the archaic period. The front part of the temple is encircled with 3.5 meter high protective walls. To diminish the difference of levels in the large area in front of the temple, these walls were built.
There are five outlets with staircases in the uncovered portion of these protective walls, each 2.5 meters wide. On the same axis, just opposite the altar the central stairs are situated. These stairs led to the terrace on which stood the votive and gods’ statues. There are rows of benches next to the stairs along the terrace wall situated in the direction of the south-east end of the temple. These benches extending parallel to the steps of the temple were built in the Hellenistic period, and were the rows of benches for the stadium situated to the south of the temple. Festivities in every four years called the “Megala Didymeia” and torch processions and competitions were arranged. In the center the bases having a hole which marked the starting points of the races, can be seen at the eastern end of the stadium.
CARIA
To start visiting Caria Region it is suggested to see firts one of the most beautiful ancient city in Anatolia, Aphrodisias and Hierapolis where the most famous place Pamukkale Travertine is existing. First stop is Aphrodisias 180 km east of Didyma. Before we discover it let's have some information about Caria Region.
To start visiting Caria Region it is suggested to see firts one of the most beautiful ancient city in Anatolia, Aphrodisias and Hierapolis where the most famous place Pamukkale Travertine is existing. First stop is Aphrodisias 180 km east of Didyma. Before we discover it let's have some information about Caria Region.
They were one of the first to fit handles onto their shields and a crest and tassel to their helmets. They were masters of the sea, but they were just as comfortable in the mountains of southwestern Anatolia. They were the Carians. Ancient Caria was a civilization that took root and sprouted in western Anatolia. Its second capital was Bodrum (Halicarnassus) in southwest Anatolia, where at 55 meters tall blossomed one of the seven wonders of the ancient world: the mausoleum of the powerful governor of Caria, Mausolos. British archaeologist C.T. Newton, however, carried the ruins of this site to the British Museum in the 19th century.
The ancient civilization of Caria was situated in the region that was surrounded by the Büyük Menderes River in the north and Dalaman River in the south. Because the mountains meet the sea perpendicularly in this region, the shore is made up of peninsulas, bays and islands, creating a most suitable environment for seafaring, fishing and trade. In Caria Region we are going to visit Aphrodisias, (As an alternative it is recommended to visit Hierapolis which is close to Aphrodisias.) Didyma, Halicarnassos, Bodrum town, famous for its Mouseleum one of seven wonders and Museum Of Underwater Archaeology and Caunus ancient city.
APHRODISIAS
It used to be called before as Salbakos lying on 2308-meter. The village Geyre, which is 13 km far from the city of Karacasu in the Aydin province, is situated in the green nature as well. Its olive trees, walnut trees, pomegranate trees and wine gardens have become an inseparable unity.
The first settlers arrived in Aphrodisias first during the Neolithic times, 8000 years ago. The Pekmez Hill, just West of here, was situated in the city where one of the later civilizations has started and also presented one of the prehistoric settlements.
In the late first century B.C, the city came under the personal protection of the Roman emperor Augustus, and a long period of growth and good fortune ensued. The first several centuries A.D. were especially most surviving buildings of the city date to this period. In the fourth century, Aphrodisias became the capital of the Roman province of Caria. The cosmopolitan character of the age is demonstrated by the presence in this city of an active Jewish community, attested in a famous inscription listing benefactors of the local Synagogue.
After having useful infomation let’s start visiting ruins.
We know based on the inscriptions on this building that it was called Sebasteion. This monument consists of three principal buildings. The entrance building Propylon towards the road has two levels. The 14-m wide road of marble ends up in a victory temple on a podium. Three-level portikos are on every side of the road.
Between the pillars of the second and third levels of the buildings, there are freely designed frescoes. The boards of the second level include mythological scenes, the boards of the third Level show scenes of Emperors.
On the right side of Sebastion South Agora and Theater building can be seen.
The city's second main public square lies back to back with the North Agora. It is a long colonnaded piazza whose earliest part, the north portico, was dedicated by a local aristocrat named Diogenes to the emperor Tiberius. Recent excavations have discovered an extraordinary monumental water-basin in the center of the square. This basin has a sophisticated system of water circulation within its double wall-casing and connects with the Hadrian Baths to the west.
The theater was built on the eastern slope of the
larger of two prehistoric settlement mounds surrounded by the otherwise flat
and fertile plain of the Meander River Valley. Situated adjacent to the South
Agora, or public square of the ancient city, the theatre was ideally located
for public performances, forums, and the circus-like entertainment of blood
sports. According to the inscription, this complex was a foundation of Julius
Zoilos for goddess Aphrodite and the citizens of the city. Also we learn from
the inscriptions that the theater was completed 27 BC.The half circle Orchestra of the Aphrodisias theater was used as an arena by having decreared the lower levels of the seat series in the form of a Konistra. Fights with wild animals and gladiator competitions were presented in this arena. The animals got into the arena through a hall under the stage.
The upper Cavea was completely destroyed and was leveled, so houses could be built in the area. Later, walls and towers surrounded the area of the hills, and a fortress was created while the theater was used as a garbage place.
When we continue to wolk through to the right side we encounter Basilica and Hadrians Bath complex.
The Civil Basilica is a long building running north-south from the southwest corner of the South Agora. The interior is divided into two side aisles and a central paved nave by two-storied colonnades and terminated at its south end in a grand chamber, like that in the basilica of Aspendos. In late antiquity, the upper story was fitted with sculptured relief panels forming a balustrade. The reliefs feature scenes of local mythology, including one of Ninos, a legendary founder of Aphrodisias.
The large Hadrianic Bath complex, built across the west end of the South Agora, has been standing since antiquity. The Baths were massively constructed from large tufa-like blocks faced with marble veneer, and are composed of five great barrel-vaulted chambers, with an imposing colonnaded court in front. The baths, the forecourt, and the west stoa of the South Agora were richly decorated with sculpture.
Now we continue to noth direction to visit Nort Agora, Bouleterion called as Odeon as well and Aphrodite Temple.
Current research on the Agora has four main components: recording of the standing architectural remains, reexamination of the earlier excavations and associated finds, limited new excavation and study of the area in relation to surrounding structures and the overall city plan.
Inscriptions on some of the temple's columns and door moldings record the contributions of various leading citizens to the construction of the building. One of Aphrodisias's most important monuments, this temple emphasized the city's links with the Julio-Claudian dynasty by providing an impressive home for the cult of their divine ancestress, Aphrodite.
The building was converted into a church of basilical plan and so much larger than the pagan temple it replaced. The manner in which this change was effected the temple and made it be unique among all known temple-to-church conversions.
We are finishing our trip with the last beautiful structure, Stadium.
The stadium was specially designed for athletic contests, but after the theatre was damaged in the 7th century earthquake the eastern end of the arena began to be used for games, circuses and gladiatorial combats. During the Roman period the stadium was the scene of a large number of athletic competitions and festivals.
After visiting marvellous Aphrodisias, it is offered to visit Hierapolis ancient roman city famous for White travertine locating in Phrygia, today in Denizli Province.
DENİZLİ
Denizli is located in southwestern Anatolia, in the country's Aegean Region. Developing industrial city Denizli has achieved a remarkable economic development in the last decades based notably on textile production and exports. Having become a vibrant center of manufacturing focused on exportation, Denizli is frequently cited, along with a number of other Turkish cities, as one of the foremost examples of "Anatolian Tigers" in reference to its rapid pace of development.
Denizli attracts many visitors to the nearby mineral-coated hillside hot spring of Pamukkale and Karahayıt. Also the ancient ruined city of Hierapolis, as well as ruins of the city of Laodicea on the Lycus, attract people the ancient metropolis of Phrygia.
PAMUKKALE
First let’s see the White travertine.
The calcium oxide-rich waters flowing down the southern slope of Çaldag located north of the ruins have, over the millennia, built up deposits of white travertine on the plateau. The terraces were formed by running warm spring water, at a temperature of 35 °C / 102 °F containing calcium bicarbonate.
When the water loses its carbon dioxide it leaves limestone deposits. These are of different colors and shapes in the form of terraces with pools, overhanging surfaces and fascinating stalactite formations. The thermal springs of Pamukkale form an integral part of the regions which are potential for tourism and have been popular since ancient times.
Now we can start to see all the ruins of Hierapolis. You can start either from South Gate or from Nort Gate. But we start to walk from South Gate.
HIERAPOLIS
Hierapolis was completely collapsed by the earthquake in 60 A.D. during the time of Roman Emperor Nero. During the reconstruction after the earthquake, the city lost its Hellenistic Style and became a typical Roman City any more. Right after the Roman period, Hierapolis became an important center because of its commercial and religious position. In 80 A.D. St. Philip came to Hierapolis and was murdered by the Jewish inhabitants. Hierapolis was conquered by the Turks at the end of the 12th century A.D. The ancient city was on the borders of Caria, Lycia and Phrygia and had a mixed population.
South Gate and city walls: This is the monumental entrance to the Roman city and leads onto the large area, 14m wide, wich crosses the whole settlement. The city walls were built in accordance with a law issued in 396 AD. similar to other cities of the Roman Empire with walls on the north, south and east sides of the city. 24 square towers are placed along the city walls. There are 4 entrances, two with monumental gates and two more small gates. The monumental gates are situated on the main street. Unfortunately, most of the city walls were destroyed by earthquakes.
After we enter the city on the left side ruins of Gymansium can be seen.
In the cavea there are 50 rows of seats divided into 7 parts by 8 intermediate stairways. The diazome, which divided the cavea into two, was entered by two vaulted passages. The Imperial lodge at the middle of cavea and the 6 foot high wall surrounding the orchestra are particulary impressive.
The theatre friezes show mythological scenes. The birth of Apollon and Artemis and the religious ceremonies held in honour of them; the disports of Dionysos, Satyr and Menad, the musical contest between Marsyas and Apollo fights between Gods and giants, the abduction of Persephone by Hades and daily scenes such as the athletic competitions. On the architrave of the main entrance the Imperial family attending the coronation of Septimus Severus is shown.
The roof of the cloister which is about 20 m. in diameter is formed by a dome constructed from lead tiles supported on a wooden frame. The sides are formed by a mixture of brick arches and wooden roofs. The presence of the Martyrion and the many churches indicate the importance of the city in Cristian history.
The Temple of Apollo was established above the ancient and holy chasm called Plutonium was the oldest religious centre of the native community, the place where Apollo met with Cibele. It was said that only the priest of the Great Mother could enter the cave without being overpowered by the underground fumes. The remains of the superstructure of the Temple of Apollo date from the 3rd century AD while the foundations are late Hellenistic.
The Temple, which may be recognised by its marble staircase, lies within a sacred area, about 70 metres long, which was surrounded by an enclosure Wall. The enclosure was in turn surrounded, at least on its southern, western and northern sides, by a marble portico which has been only partially excavated. An elegant marble portico may be seen, with pilasters bearing fluted.
The underground water was providing healing effect to the people in the past as it does to so many tourists that come to the region in nowadays. In that period Hierapolis was a health center and that caused to start the first tourism dynamisms in there.
And for that reason in a short period of time the city became a meeting place where different folks and people meet Medicinal characteristic of Pamukkale thermal water has been known since the ancient times and after centuries, its medical attribution has been proved by the scientists.
It is worth admiring the well preserved structure with three openings, in carefully squared travertine blocks, with elegant arches decorated with a simple cornice moulding, flanked by two round towers that recall Hellenistic city Gates such as that of the Pamphilian city of Perge, near Antalya.
You can continue to nort side and finishing your trip loosing yourself in thousends of graves. Time to see Necropolis.
Beyond the city walls, in all directions you can see necropol areas. These are situated in two sides of the north way; one goes from Tripolis to Sardes and the other goes in South way from Laodikya to Closae.
Limestone and marble had been used for the graves. The monuments situated in the large area together with so many travertine lahids make its scene affective. There are so many architectural grave monuments in Hierapolis and they have different architectural techniques. The oldest graves are the ones in the Hellenistic Period which are the Tumulus graves.
The graves made as the 2nd and the 3rd, are generally surrounded by walls and they have gardens decorated with flowers and trees. Grave monuments wich are completely made of travertine, shows different types; like simple lahids, and home kind graves which has two or more lahids on it.
Large travertine area is completely demolished. The rectangle and hallow graves, which may be simple and more older than necropolis, attracts attention. While digging, experts in Denizli Museum, founded a grave with long inscriptions. Close to it, Epigraphic marble blocks had been founded which are dated to young Helenistic Period.
On the North side of the area, digging works are going on. On the hillside, Byzantine ramparts, on the grave builds, marble lahids had been founded. This lahids are staying on a stone base. The roof that builded with cob brick is covered with tiles. This style was a new style in this period and inside the grave it is decorated with coloured wall paintings.
Because of its red water, Karahayit hosts so many local and international tourists almost every season. The choosing of local and international tourists which come to Karahayit are both healing waters of thermal spring. The surface shapes of thermal springs in colours of brown, red, yellow. The thermal water’s temparature is changing between 23,3 and 57,5 °C
BODRUM & HALICARNASSUS
Bodrum is a port city in Muğla Province, in the southwestern Aegean Region of Turkey. It is located on the southern coast of Bodrum Peninsula, at a point that checks the entry into the Gulf of Gökova. The site was called Halicarnassus of Caria in ancient times and was famous for housing the Mausoleum of Mausolus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The region includes the municipalities of Bodrum, Turgutreis, Ortakent, Türkbükü, Yalıkavak, Gümüşlük, Bitez, Konacık, Yalı and Mumcular; with many tourist-oriented developments being constructed across the district area.
Bodrum has no notable history of political or religious extremism either. A first nucleus of intellectuals started to form after the 1950s around the writer Cevat Şakir Kabaağaçlı, who had first come here in exile two decades before and was charmed by the town to the point of adopting the pen name Halikarnas Balıkçısı, The Fisherman of Halicarnassus.
Bodrum has an active tourist economy. The sheltered anchorage contains yachts and locally-built gulets used by seafaring tourists. Artist Simon Kozhin "Bodrum. Pink sunrise" Investors have purchased real estate, specifically as second homes.
BODRUM CASTLE
The first walls were completed in 1437. The chapel was among the first completed inner structures. It consists of a vaulted nave and an apse. Fourteen cisterns for collecting rainwater were excavated in the rocks under the castle. There were seven gates leading to the inner part of the fortress. The Knights had placed above the gates and on the walls hundreds of painted coats of arms and carved reliefs. There remain now 249 separate designs: those of grand masters, castle commandants, countries, personal coat of arms of knights and religious figures.
The construction of the three-storied English tower was finished in 1413. One could only access this tower via a drawbridge. The walls facing the sea were less thick, since the Order had little to fear from a sea attack due to their powerful naval fleet.
In later years, the castle has been used for different purposes. It was used as a military base by the Turkish army during the Greek Revolt in 1824. In the 19th century the chapel was converted into a mosque and a minaret was added. At the same time a hamam (public bath) was installed in the castle. In 1895 the castle was turned into a prison. During World War I, the castle was fired upon by a French warship, toppling the minaret and damaging several towers. After the war, the Italians stationed a garrison in the castle, but withdrew in 1921 when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk came to power.
The castle stood empty for 40 years.
In 1962 the Turkish Government decided to turn the castle into a museum for the many underwater discoveries of ancient shipwrecks in the Aegean Sea. This has become the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, with a vast collection of amphoras, ancient glass, bronze, clay, iron items. It is the biggest of its kind devoted to underwater archaeology. Most of its collection dates from underwater excavations after 1960.
The city of Halicarnassus where Mausolus and Artemisia ruled is now known today as Bodrum. The term mausoleum became the name used for tombs built above ground from that time on. Mausolus' wife Artemisia was also his sister. It was common in those days for rulers to marry their sisters. Artemisia hired famous Greek artists to build the tomb. Two Greek architects Pytheos and Satyros designed the shape of the tomb. Artemisia died two years after Mausolus, before the tomb was completed. At the top of the tomb there was a sculpture created by Pytheos. The carving depicted Mausolus and Artemisia in a chariot being pulled by four massive horses. Other Greek artists that worked on the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus include Bryaxis, Scopas of Paros, Timotheus and Leochares. Most of the mausoleum was made of marble. It was surrounded by a courtyard. A staircase was built leading up the platform where the mausoleum stood. There were stone lions flanking the staircase. Alexander the Great took over the city in 334 BC but the Mausoleum was left untouched. When pirates attacked the city in 58 and 62 BC, the Mausoleum was again left undamaged. In the 13th century, earthquakes toppled the columns of the Mausoleum and the stone chariot was destroyed. In the 13th century crusaders took over the city. They used many parts of the Mausoleum to construct their buildings. If you visit the castle at Halicarnassus you can still see pieces of the tomb that were used to strengthen the castle walls. By 1401 AD, all that was left was the base of the tomb. In the 1800s an archaeologist names Charles Newton discovered the remnants of the mausoleum. He found the statues of Mausolus and Artemisia and a piece of the wheel of the chariot. They can be seen at the Mausoleum Room in the British Museum.
Now the last place in Caria to be visited is Kaunos famous for its tombs.
KAUNOS
Kaunos, some prefer spelling Caunus, is located just outside the modern resort town of Dalyan, separated from it by the river of the same name. As it is only a short distance from Dalaman airport, and in driving distance from major tourist destinations like Marmaris and Ölüdeniz, one might expect large crowds to visit the extensive archaeological site – but that is not so far the case.
Kaunos was probably founded as early as the 9th or 8th century BC, most likely by local Carians. From the 5th century BC onwards, it slowly took on the characteristics of a Greek city, before becoming romanised along with all of Asia Minor cities. Its existence as a settlement lasted at least until the 7th century AD. Located in Anatolia, displaying strong Greek influence and set on a major international naval trade route, Kaunos had a complex history. Between the 5th century BC and the Roman age, it underwent frequent changes of alignment or domination: over the centuries it belonged to the Persian Empire, the Athenian-Delian League, Sparta, Caria, Rhodes, Ptolemaic Egypt, Macedon, Rhodes again, Pontus and eventually Rome. The impressive ruins of ancient Kaunos are a major highlight on our trip in Caria. Kaunos is a site that is interesting for both its archeological and ecological importance. Situated in the Köyceğiz-Dalyan Special Environmental Protection Area, it offers outstanding vistas and is rich in wildlife. The ruins of the city are near Dalyan, on the west bank of the ancient Kalbis river. The main sights at the archeological site itself are below written.
The Acropolis, situated on a 152 m. high rock, fortified with Byzantine walls. The city's acropolis was called Imbros and it lay at the foot of Mount Tarbelos.
Adjacent to the acropolis is a smaller fortification, called Heraklion. Until the 5th century BC this 50 m high cape reached into sea and there were two ports south and north of it. From the Acropolis there is a stunning view of the ancient city, Dalyan, the Dalyan river and İztuzu Beach. The theater on the slope of the acropolis featuring both Hellenistic and Roman characteristics.
The theater has a diameter of 75 m and was built at a 27-degree angle. It had a capacity for 5000 spectators and is in a fairly good state. It is still occasionally used for performances.
The palaestra with its Roman baths, a wind measuring platform and a domed Byzantine basilica. Archaeological research has shown that the palaestra was built over part of the old city that most probably had been a place of worship.
The Roman baths served as a social meeting place and were meant to impress the Kaunians — by their sheer dimensions — of the power of the Roman Empire. In the Byzantine era the baths were dismantled and the frigidarium was re-used as a church. The wind-measuring platform dates back to 150 BC and was used for city planning. According to the archeologists Öğün and Işık, it must have consisted of a circular building with a base diameter of 15.80 m and a top diameter of 13.70 m.
The port agora is located at the flat area in front of Sülüklü Lake. It dates back to the 4th century BC and kept its function as an economic, political and social meeting place until the end of the Roman era. The remains of pedestals indicate that there must have been many statues of influential Romans but these have not been found.
The temples; Six temples have been excavated, two of Hellenistic and four of Roman origin. Probably the terrace temple of the 3rd century BC facing a circle of columns has the greatest appeal. Inside the circle an obelisk has been found, which is also depicted on old Kaunian coins. The obelisk was the symbol of king Kaunos who according to mythology established the ancient city bearing his name.
Outside the official Kaunos archeological site, there are six rock tombs on the Dalyan river 4th - 2nd century BC which are Dalyan's prime sight. The façades of the rock tombs resemble the fronts of Hellenistic temples with two Ionian pillars, a triangular pediment, an architrave with toothed friezes and acroterions shaped like palm leaves.
Kaunos is surrounded by ancient necropoli, because the ancient Greeks and Romans always buried their deceased at considerable distance from their homes. The niche tombs were the most common ones. The ashes of the deceased were put in urns and then placed in a niche. At the port of Çandır, some km beyond the archeological site of Kaunos, there are tens of niche tombs hewn from the rock of Kızıltepe.
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